Posted on Fri, Mar. 12, 2004

Quick Bites

Burger joint is jumpin’

By Mark Lowry

Star-Telegram Staff Writer

THE CUISINE: Burgers

THE STORY: The Dallas location is No. 14 for this chain that began in San Francisco, has expanded throughout the country and plans to go international in Mexico, Australia and Europe. If the name and Dallas neighborhood — Oak Lawn — don’t tip you off to the fact that it’s a gay-friendly establishment, check out the sign on a closet door between the men’s and women’s bathrooms proudly announcing that diners don’t have to be in the closet to eat here.

THE FOOD: Massive half-pound burgers are served on fresh, house-made buns and come with coleslaw, potato salad, fresh fruit, seasoned fries or beer-battered onion rings. Beef can be replaced with a turkey or vegetable patty on any burger. The burgers are so tall and round that we defy you not to cut it in half, or in quarters, before attempting a bite.

The patty on the Buffy the Hamburger Slayer ($7.95) was marinated in red wine, and included garlic cloves, Caesar dressing and Swiss cheese, which made for a symphony of flavors. On the Queen Mary Burger, grilled onions, Cheddar and jack cheeses, and bacon strips provided a more down-home style. Onion rings were huge and not overfried.

The menu also features salads, soups and sandwiches. Forthcoming are specialities such as fajitas (with an option for tofu), ribs and "crispy caramel-glazed fried chicken and biscuits."

THE SERVICE: We hate to disparage anything about Mary, but truthfully, its service needs a nip and tuck or two. On our visit, we ordered Golden Cala-Mary and got a vocal confirmation from the waiter. But our meals showed up and there was no mention of the calamari throughout our visit (at least it wasn’t on the check).

Wanting to give it a second chance, I visited again on a Saturday afternoon and the host informed me there would be a 45-minute wait between ordering and receiving my food. A glance around revealed several empty tables, booths and bar stools — and the place ain’t that big. I couldn’t afford the wait, so I passed. Can’t say I wasn’t warned. A colleague who tried Mary’s on a Sunday afternoon reports that she, too, enjoyed the food but had to wait unusually long for it.

Such delays at a burger joint? Don’t think so. If only Mary herself could’ve been there to snap her fingers and whip everyone into shape.

THE PRICES: $7-$10 is pricey for a burger, but these are worth it.

THE DETAILS: Open 11 a.m.-midnight daily. Has full bar and nightly entertainment, from poetry to comedy to drag shows. Smoking is allowed on the patio. Wheelchair-accessible. Park in the garage below (enter from Douglas Street) and take the elevator up.

Hamburger Mary’s

4140 Lemmon Ave.

Dallas

(214) 528-6279