Homepage > Joss Whedon Off Topic > The L.A. lookmakers (sarah michelle gellar mention)
Philly.com The L.A. lookmakers (sarah michelle gellar mention)Elizabeth Wellington Sunday 14 May 2006, by Webmaster Meet the designers doing the sunny and hot Los Angeles thing to fashion. LOS ANGELES - This spring, everyone’s wearing a pair of jeans with a stretch matte jersey empire-waist top and espadrilles. Or a skulled-out graphic top under a cropped blazer with a full skirt. Or a pair of gray leggings peeking under a skirt, paired with a long-sleeved T-shirt layered over a spaghetti-strapped tank. Whatever the look, chances are it came from L.A. It’s hard to pinpoint when Los Angeles-based designers started representing all that’s cutting-edge in the women’s apparel industry. But the clamor for their could-be-casual, could-be-dressy pieces started three years ago, when low-rider jeans and lacy camisoles became the trendy outfit of choice. Since then, the West Coast has ruled the racks of specialty boutiques and posh department stores, whose buyers fill the racks with of-the-moment pieces like the Juicy Couture sweatsuit or the C&C California T-shirt. And you might not have known it, but labels such as Theory and Laundry by Shelli Segal - masters of the cocktail dress - are also based in L.A. And of course, there is denim: Blue Cult, Rock & Republic, and Paige Jeans: L.A. L.A. L.A. Because the clothes appeal to women from 18 to 50, the clothing is labeled contemporary. The outfits are meant to go from work (if you work in a more laid-back environment, that is) to play, and stop just short of designer prices (read: not cheap). While in Los Angeles, I interviewed a handful of designers responsible for giving the West Coast its current fashion shine. As we are a culture that loves jeans and T-shirts and clothes we can fold ourselves in, I’m thinking these trends will be around for a while. Taryn Rose Known for: Designing comfortable shoes that have more cachet than Aerosoles (and a much higher price tag). Fur, croc, leather, velvet - all are used as embellishment. Heels are never higher than two inches. Seen on: Angela Bassett, Felicity Huffman, Demi Moore, Geena Davis. Personals: 39. Married to Sven Rose, a radiologist; mother of three. Trained at the University of Southern California School of Medicine as an orthopedic surgeon. The bizness: In eight years, sales have grown from $2 million to more than $30 million, thanks to attention to L.A. designers and of course, celebs. Philosophy: "The most important piece of the shoe business is good design." Hot because: Rose has helped bring couture to the contemporary shoe world. Talk about snazzing up a plain T-shirt: This year the company will introduce a $600 mink thong sandal. On L.A.: "All of the hot lines are here, like Antik Denim and Rock & Republic. Eventually, L.A. will be as important as Milan or Paris and even New York. L.A. will do it its own way." Available at: Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus, Elegance by Edythe, and Peter Kate Shoes. Cynthia Vincent Known for: Acting as the head designer for the plush Twelfth Street by Cynthia Vincent. The line includes oversized cashmere sweaters so soft you can bury your face in them, as well as neutral dresses in flowy chiffon and knits. Seen on: Cameron Diaz, Nicole Richie, Rachel Bilson. Personals: 40. Seven months pregnant. 1988 graduate of the Otis Art Institute in Los Angeles. Created a knitwear line, St. Vincent, in 1998, which later became Vince. Vincent left that company in 2003. The bizness: Twelfth Street made $12 million in sales. This year she introduced a shoe line and a denim line, Cyn. Philosophy: "There was a void in the market when it came to making beautiful clothes on trend, but not trendy. Am I a contemporary designer? That’s hard. Everyone says they are ’contemporary.’ I am a young designer." Hot because: Vincent has taken matte jersey a step further than Donna Karan. Now it’s functional and sexy, with feminine touches such as ruche detailing and mandarin sleeves. Available in sizes 0 to 12. On L.A.: "I think Los Angeles is more influential in fashion than it’s ever been. There is an ease here in which the clothes are worn. Everyone from New York to Europeans come here... . The lifestyle that people want right now exists here." Available locally: Zoe, Knit Wit, Stacy Gemma, First Impressions, Public Image, Leehe Fai, Third Street Habit, and Kimberly Boutique. Kai Milla Morris Known for: Collection of formal gowns and pantsuits that includes dramatic jackets, high-waisted pencil skirts, and blouses with billowy sleeves. Seen on: Eartha Kitt, Selma Hayek, Christina Aguilera and Eva Mendes. Personals: In her 40s. Married to musician Stevie Wonder, two children. Graduated from Corcoran School of Art in Washington; she’s a D.C. native. Morris showcased her first collection at the New York Public Library two years ago. The bizness: Milla made $500,000 in sales last year. Philosophy: "Fashion should be quiet and provocative with a bit of edginess." Hot because: Morris is the designer for people who want to get dressed up, like to get dressed up, and expect to get dressed up. Yes, she says, you can dress down one of her corset tops or knit coats with a pair of jeans, but the point of these clothes is to feel elegant. On L.A.: "It’s a very different animal. L.A. is very relaxed, easygoing, light, maybe even a little sexier, and softer. I’m used to being more conservative." Available at: Fall collection will hit Saks Fifth Avenue, Henri Bendel’s in July. Jerome Dahan Known for: Reinventing jeans into the figure-flattering (and wallet-busting) "premium denim" brands Seven for All Mankind and Citizens of Humanity, seen everywhere from the Boardwalk to the ballet. Seen on: Darned near er’body, but folks of note include Jennifer Garner, Brad Pitt, Justin Timberlake. Personals: 42. Two children. Dahan came to California in the 1980s to work for Guess. In 2000, Dahan started Seven with partners Michael Glasser and Peter Koral. After a bitter breakup with Koral, Glasser and Dahan started Citizens. The bizness: Last year, the company made $82 million in sales. Citizens has a men’s and a maternity line. Philosophy: "I didn’t want to make a regular pair of jeans. I’m all about using the best fabric and finding the best fit... . I always ask, ’Who is the girl I would love to wear my jeans?’ That would be Jackie Onassis, if she was alive." Hot because: Dahan has brought an aura of sophistication to the workingman’s pants. Even the Levi’s and Wranglers of the world have stepped up fit and quality. On L.A.: "L.A. is the capital of the jean manufacturing world. Design-wise, it is a most creative city. I worked to set up the factories and the laundries in Los Angeles... . Not to mention you have access to everything including a fast route to Asia. In a big city like Paris, you can’t sew and wash jeans in the same place. We have everything." Available locally: Charles Porter, Public Image, Smith Bros., Knit Wit, Tag, and Three Sirens. Citizens are also carried at Bloomingdale’s and Nordstrom. Dov Charney Known for: Founding American Apparel, a group of retail stores known for candy-colored cotton T-shirts, leggings, yoga pants, long-sleeved T’s, shirts and dresses. Seen on: You’d never know because these basics transcend labels. Personals: 37. Single, with no children. Majored in American studies at Tufts University, but didn’t graduate. The bizness: Started in 1987, American Apparel grosses more than $200 million; there are 125 stores in 12 countries. Charney’s rise toward Gap status has been only slightly impeded by the three sexual harassment suits just filed against him by former employees. Philosophy: "To make clothes that appeal to people that are functional and have a fashion sensibility." Hot because: American Apparel has made comfort clothing sexy; just check out the lascivious ads (that Charney shot himself) of women who work at the company. On L.A.: "Here is where there is a manufacturing base. There is a lot of talent, and everyone likes springtime all year round." Available at: Two local stores: 1611 Walnut St. in Center City and 3661 Walnut St. on the University of Pennsylvania campus. Max Azria Known for: Bringing young Hollywood style - think sparkly camisoles over jeans - to the masses through the mall go-to spot, BCBG. With his new couture Max Azria line, the looks are growing up: Much like Michael Kors, this is a collection of wearable soft dresses, khakis and knits in punchy colors. Max Azria Atelier features red-carpet evening gowns. Seen on: Sarah Michelle Gellar, Mariah Carey, Kelly Clarkson, Fergie from the Black Eyed Peas, Christina Milian, Ciara, and Beyoncé Knowles. Personals: Married with six children. Azria designed womenswear in Paris for 11 years before coming to the States in 1989. The name BCBG comes from the French phrase bon chic, bon genre (good style, good attitude). The bizness: The company expects to reach $1 billion in sales this year. Philosophy: "My philosophy is to offer modern women beautiful, stylish clothing and accessories at a price they can afford." Hot because: Max Azria was one of the first L.A.-based contemporary designers to open a chain of specialty shops that are now staples in upscale malls. He also has a heavy department-store presence. On L.A.: "I would say that L.A.’s impact on the fashion world has grown tremendously since I started my company here in 1989. The reason why I originally chose to live and base my company in L.A. was for the synergy of cinema, music and fashion that I love so much." Available at: BCBG is opening a store on Walnut Street this year. |